Tokelau Travel Guide

Children enjoying the shade at Fakaofo.

The People

The Tokelauans are closely related to the people of Tuvalu. Around 500 people live on each atoll, or 1,500 in Tokelau as a whole.

Another 8,000 Tokelauans live "beyond the reef" in Samoa and New Zealand (mainly around Wellington), the result of a migration that began in 1963, following overpopulation in Tokelau itself.

A good many of the present islanders have been to New Zealand and the island population is actually declining as many working age adults join this migration.

Due to the work of early missionaries, Atafu is Congregationalist (LMS), Nukunonu Catholic, and Fakaofo a combination of the two.

Since the Samoan Bible is used, all adults understand Samoan. Young people learn English at school, but everyone speaks Tokelauan at home.

In Tokelau, authority is based on age, rather than lineage. Arguably, nowhere else in the world are senior citizens as respected. Traditionally, the women controlled family resources, but in recent years monetarism has led to this role being appropriated by men.

Conduct and Customs

In Tokelau, as elsewhere, proper conduct is mostly common sense. Take care not to expect better conditions than anyone else and avoid causing a disturbance. Keep in mind that you're a guest in someone's home. Step aside for the elders and never tell them what to do. When passing in front of another person, bow slightly and say tulou..

If people invite you into a house for a cup of coffee or a meal, politely refuse, saying that you have just finished eating. Such invitations are usually only a form of greeting, and they may not even have what is offered. If they insist a second or third time, or it's someone you know quite well, then they probably mean it. Sit on the mat with your legs crossed or folded, not stretched out.

Village men work together a day or two a week on communal projects. If you can manage to join in with the group, known as the aumaga, you'll fit into the community better. You should also accompany your hosts to church on Sunday. Overt flirtations with members of the opposite sex are frowned upon. If you feel an attraction, simply mention it to one of his/her friends, and the word will be passed on. The women are crazy about bingo and stay up half the night playing it. You'll have to learn how to count (tahi, lua, tolu, fa, lima, ono, fitu, valu, iva, hefulu) if you want to join them (two sene a game). The men may offer to take you line fishing, rod fishing, spearfishing, net fishing, trolling (for bonito), etc.